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  • Alex visits San Diego or Why I Moved to Switzerland Part 3

    Part III of III (finally!). Read Part 1 and Part 2.

    After spending a week in Helsinki my three month trip to Europe was over. As sad as I was to be leaving I was just as happy to be flying back to San Diego. Not only because I missed the place that had become my home over the past three years, or because I missed my friends, or Mexican food… but because I had met a guy and he was on a four week trip through California which would end in San Diego.

    Alex and I hadn’t seen each other since our trip to Tuscany together for my 30th birthday though we sent messages and Skyped as much as we could. Before we crossed paths Alex already had planned a trip to San Francisco to run in the San Francisco marathon with some friends. Post-marathon he planned to spend 4 weeks road tripping through California with his friend Tom. And as the universe would have it they would reach San Diego in the last week of their trip and just shortly after I returned home from Europe. Tom’s flight home was just a few days earlier than Alex’s as well so we had a few days to spend together just the two of us.

    I was incredibly excitednervousanxious for him to arrive. Not just because we hadn’t seen each other in so long. This was someone I spent only two long weekends with, and what would happen when he left San Diego? Would we ever see each other again?

    I’m not sure if Alex noticed but by the time he reached San Diego I had some serious walls up and it took a good few days before they started to come down. I spent the first few days enjoying our time together and showing Alex and Tom around San Diego a bit. But simultaneously I was searching for any possible red flag…any little thing to not like about Alex so that it would be easier to say goodbye. I didn’t know what I was doing at the time but it all became clear when the week ended and I took him to catch his train to L.A. for his flight home.

    After fighting with myself silently for the past week, from feeling like I’ve met the perfect person for me, to being certain that there was no way it could work, and then back and forth again, it was the moment that his train pulled up to take him to L.A. that everything became clear to me. There was no possible way that this could be the last time we saw each other. I was learning a lot about myself that week. First discovering the defense mechanisms I never acknowledged having, and second how horrible I am at goodbyes. Luckily Alex isn’t and was able to say out loud what I was thinking…”our story can’t be over.”

    Unlike in Switzerland this train goodbye was more like the movies. The train conductor stood there politely ignoring us while we made out in the rain until the whistle blew and he told Alex he had to board. I employed every muscle in my face to keep it from crumpling as I watched the train pull away and then immediately erupted into sobs all the way back to my car where I sat for quite awhile gathering myself. My only comfort was that I truly believed that this wasn’t the end.

    And it wasn’t. After Alex left we immediately began hatching plans of how to be together. Should he move to the U.S.? Should I move to Switzerland? There were many possibilities to consider. Alex was open to moving to the U.S. but it didn’t make sense to me. He was at a turning point in his job and leaving it would mean taking a step backwards career-wise. I on the other hand ready for something new job-wise and I always had the option of freelance work. A huge struggle for me in all of this was my ego. As much as I wanted to drop everything and just move there was that side of me that wanted to be the strong, independent woman that wouldn’t leave the life I had built on a whim about a guy. Challenging or not, my job was great and I was on the verge of signing a lease that would put me in my first apartment sans-roommates a block from the beach in Southern California. I had worked hard for the past two years and saying that the idea of continuing down that path wasn’t tempting would be a lie. Without Alex there in front of me doubt crept in again. This time it wasn’t about how I felt but whether I should follow my heart or my brain.

    I weighed the options carefully. I sought advice from all my close friends and family. The overall vote was unanimous…I should follow my heart. But friends and family are bias and I still wasn’t sure. The push I needed came unexpectedly. I went out to meet my friend Rebecca one night and was introduced to her friend Jamie. Jamie was engaged and would be leaving to Ireland for her wedding in two weeks and then onto Italy to honeymoon. I told her about my time in Italy which of course led to discussing Alex and the decision I was in the midst of making. I was laying out all the options with her, discussing the pros and cons of each when suddenly she barked at me “What are you doing?! Quit your job tomorrow and move there!!” I’m paraphrasing and her language was a bit more persuasive. I don’t know why it took someone I just met to make me suddenly wake up. Maybe it was the few drinks we’d had. Maybe I’d already made the decision and just needed a random unbiased person to tell me it was OK and I wouldn’t be judged for it but that was it…I was going to move to Switzerland.

    I told Alex my decision and everything began to fall into place. I took a month-to-month room in my co-workers house instead of signing that lease for the beach apartment. I had to stay in the U.S for 90 days before I could return so I left my job at the end of October and bought a plane ticket that would take me to Raleigh just before my nephew’s birthday so that I could bake him his birthday cake and see my family before flying on to Basel.

    But with the highest highs sometimes come the lowest lows. The night before my flight to Raleigh I got the news that my brother-in-law’s mother Jeri had died in a car accident. The news shook me and my entire family to the core. Jeri was the kind of person that made me homesick for my own mom (in a good way) when I was around her. She made every single person in my family feel like they were a part of hers. Every time I saw her and she heard about my next adventure her genuine excitement for me made me feel proud of my decisions. She really had a way of making you feel good about yourself. But now, suddenly my family’s life was turned upside down and I wasn’t sure what to do. My first thought was that I would have to cancel going to Basel so I could be there for them to help however I could. As my thoughts spiraled I couldn’t help but think about how I was about to move thousands of miles away from my own family and my own parents…and how precious every moment is. Was this a sign?

    I’m not religious and I’m still figuring out what I believe in terms of how the universe works. All I know is somehow my decision to move to Basel put me in Raleigh the day after Jeri’s death so that I could hug my sister and brother-in-law, help them out in their time of grief and through the funeral, and be there for my 4-year old nephew as he struggled to understand why his Nana was gone forever. I struggle to understand why things like this happen but one thing I pulled from this tragedy was that my brother-in-law is one of the strongest people I have ever met. My sister, my nephew and my niece (who was was on the verge of being born at the time) are in the best hands possible. He took on one of the biggest challenges he will ever face in his life with the same brave determination that his Mother took on in her fight and defeat over breast cancer. And this made me realize two things. I don’t need to worry so much about my family…they are just fine. And if I live my life revolving around the fear of not being close to them then I will miss out on the chance to have what they have.

    And so I left Raleigh with a heavy heart but a renewed confidence in my decision once again. And when I walked out of the airport in Basel and saw Alex waiting for me I felt nothing but pure, complete happiness.

     

     

     

  • A Week in Helsinki, Finland

    If you’ve been following my blog then I’m sure you were expecting Part 3 of my recent series about why I’ve moved to Switzerland. But, we have to keep things in order here. There were some big things that happened between Tuscany and getting back to San Diego and I can’t forget about them.

    My time in Europe was coming to a close. I had one final trip planned after leaving Slovenia to go visit my friend Tiki in Helsinki, Finland. Tiki works for the same corporation that sent me to Slovenia and she had done the exchange program the summer before in our office in California. Unfortunately, I arrived to Helsinki quite ill but we made the best of it and had a wonderful time together.

    We started things off with a music festival over the weekend. We had bracelets so we were able to come and go as we pleased. The music was great but the highlight for me was seeing the fashion in Helsinki. While it may make me sound old and possibly catty I’m going to go ahead and say that I do not understand “Hipster” fashion at all! Most of the concert goers looked to be 20-30 somethings. It seemed as if the goal here was to dress in the most horrible outfits possible. And just like most events with alcohol and music it is a place to be seen. I contemplated this fashion sense for quite awhile. The interesting thing is that people who at one time may have been considered strange looking are now the Kings and Queens of the hipsters because the goal seems to be to look as unattractive (by society’s standards) as possible. It’s quite interesting because while these people may think that they’re going against the grain of society its actually so mainstream now that they are just the same vain, wannabe popular kids as in any other subculture of people. Anyway, Tiki and I had a good time pointing out the best outfits and later that week she showed me a web site where you can gawk at the fashion trends in the privacy of your own home. If you think I’m being a square or have no clue what I’m talking about then just go here and click a bit…the commentary is even better than the outfits! www.hel-looks.com (Disclaimer: This is in no way an insult to Helsinki or Finland as this is a world-wide trend. I just had never seen so much of it in one place at one time. It was a “people watching” paradise!)

    Tiki’s sister and friend both work on one of the ferry boats that take you out to the islands around the city. We took two trips. The first one was to Suomenlinna which has an old sea fortress on it. We wandered around a bit exploring the area and then finished the day with a meal at Suomenlinnan Panimo. The restaurant was quite expensive but we opted for a salmon soup from the starters and between that and the bread basket it was a really filling and delicious meal.

    Our next ferry ride took us to the island Pihlajasaari. We had stopped at a market prior and picked up some fresh raspberries for the journey. Apparently it is common for some older women to take the ferry over in the morning and spend the day cooking crepes in a little house and selling them. We were lucky enough to come on the right day and the raspberries we bought were perfect for topping the crepes and jam. The rest of the day was spent on a little beach with a bottle of wine. We soaked up some sun, read some books, and chatted away.

    On the days Tiki was at work I had to fend for myself. I went out and wandered the city with my camera. I walked down to the harbor and had lunch at Kauppatori, the market square. We had passed it before and I was excited to try some local cuisine. I got a plate of some little fried fish called Vendace, some salmon, and potatoes and the price was really great for the amount of fresh seafood I got. After lunch I wandered the stalls looking at all the handmade arts and crafts. There was some really lovely jewelry but Finnish prices are a bit high…especially at this market. Once through the market I walked up and down streets taking photos and visited the Uspenski Cathedral, Helsinki Cathedral, and Senate Square.

    Another day I took the bus to Porvoo, Finland. A small, medieval town on a river which is famous for its old town and wooden houses. This town was a nice contrast from Helsinki and I was able to see another side of Finland here. The small cobblestone streets were lined with interesting shops and restaurants, all housed in old, brightly colored, wooden buildings. It was nice to get lost for a day in this peaceful town.

    The best part of Helsinki though was spending time with a wonderful friend who loves food as much as I do. We were both very well fed that week either cooking together at home or dining out. I had traditional Finnish food, a great Mexican meal, and one of the best burgers I’ve had in awhile, and plenty of coffee, hot chocolate, alcohol, and baked treats! On my last night there Tiki took me to a Mexican style bar complete with Jalapeno shots and rope swings as bar seats. I was finally feeling healthy again and was having a lovely time at the bar but unfortunately had a flight to catch the next day so we headed back to her place relatively early for bed.

    Finland was a great end to my European adventure but I must admit I was excited to get back to California after 3 months away from my friends and family. And of course…to see Alex again.

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  • Riding the Zip Line in Bovec Slovenia

    If you’ve been following my blog then I’m sure you were expecting Part 3 of my recent series about why I’ve moved to Switzerland. But, we have to keep things in order here. There were some big things that happened between Tuscany and getting back to San Diego and I can’t forget about them.

    In my last weeks in Slovenia I squeezed in as much as possible. With the discovery of my new found love of the Julian Alps during my Canyoning and Rafting trip, I wanted to spend most of my time outdoors. Luckily I had made some great friends to enjoy it with. The highlights of my last few weeks included a weekend stay near Lake Bled, a weekend hike at Triglav National Park, and another weekend in Bovec for some more canyoning.

    My final adventure in Slovenia took me back to the small mountain village of Bovec. I knew I had to return after my first weekend there. I had left feeling like this was a place that I would love to spend my life. My tour guide Deni and I had become Facebook friends and so I messaged him to let him know I’d be returning. He kindly helped me find an affordable place to stay for the weekend. When I arrived, there was a little festival in the square and I sat outside with Deni and some other tour guides and tourists drinking beers and listening to some live music. It was a great way to start off the weekend. Deni acted as my host and invited me along on the tours he was working. He had another friend in town with his wife and child and so the five of us went on a canyoning tour together. It was just as fun as the first time except with the smaller group we made it down the canyon much faster.

    After canyoning we enjoyed lunch together and then parted ways until we met up later for a zip line tour. The zip line park was so new in Bovec that a news team was in our group to film the experience. The tour was about three hours long and started with a ride up the mountain in the open back of a 4×4 military style vehicle. This was a thrill in itself as it offered amazing scenery and a fun bumpy ride. It was a much bigger group this time joined again by the family from canyoning, Deni’s son, the news crew, and quite a few other adventure seekers. I didn’t imagine that I would be so nervous for the zip lining but I’m pretty sure the kids were less scared than me. I guess that’s probably normal though as kids usually aren’t afraid of much. After a training session on a small zip line course in the woods we hiked up to the first platform.

    The zip line is apparently 2.5 km total in distance, 130 m above the ground and you reach speeds up to 40 km/hr! I hovered in the back of the group letting others go while I attempted to calm my nerves. I honestly felt sick to my stomach and could feel my heart beating in my chest. This was the first time it was truly apparent to me that regardless of the fact that I like to cliff jump I am in fact afraid of heights. The buildup and adrenaline rush prior to the ride was actually more intense than the ride itself. Once you’re flying across the valley its actually a release of all that adrenaline. When you’re out in the middle of the valley you just scream as loud as you want, look out at the view and feel lucky as hell that you’re experiencing something so awesome!

    After the long day we stayed up late into the night drinking pretty hard at the local bar. Deni and his friends were incredibly fun and it felt like I’d known everyone there for a lot longer than a weekend. While Bovec is a place that instantly feels like home to me, I realized that if I actually lived there I would have a really hard time keeping up with the amount of partying these people do. Especially after a long day of physical exertion! My last weeks in Slovenia were some of the best experiences of my life. I was really sad to be leaving but the 3 months changed me and I was excited to see what else life had in store for me. With one more week left before my flight back to the States I headed to Helsinki, Finland to visit my friend Tiki.

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  • Seven Lakes Hike – Mount Triglav, Slovenia

    If you’ve been following my blog then I’m sure you were expecting Part 3 of my recent series about why I’ve moved to Switzerland. But, we have to keep things in order here. There were some big things that happened between Tuscany and getting back to San Diego and I can’t forget about them.

    In my last weeks in Slovenia I squeezed in as much as possible. With the discovery of my new found love of the Julian Alps during my Canyoning and Rafting trip, I wanted to spend most of my time outdoors. Luckily I had made some great friends to enjoy it with. The highlights of my last few weeks included a weekend stay near Lake Bled, a weekend hike at Triglav National Park, and another weekend in Bovec for some more canyoning.

    Mount Triglav is a right of passage in Slovenia. I’ve read that its rare to meet a Slovene that hasn’t hiked Triglav to the top. This was one of my goals and while our weekend hike didn’t take us to the top it certainly was challenging enough! I set out with Meredith, Anne, and Anne’s friend to hike the Seven Lakes trail over two days. After the hiking I had done in Switzerland I was fairly confident about this hike. But I’ve learned now that distance doesn’t matter much in the long run…it’s the terrain that makes all the difference.

    The hike started with around two hours of switchbacks if my memory serves correctly. This means we gained quite a bit of altitude in a short time. The nice part was that when this part was complete we weren’t far from a mountain hut where we could refuel before continuing up the mountain to the hut we’d be staying at for the night. I actually enjoyed the uphill. It was a challenge but you’re always rewarded with some breathtaking view when you reach the top. After a long day of hiking when we all were just on the verge of utter exhaustion we came into a valley and saw our beautiful little hut! It was straight out of The Sound of Music! Entering the hut you have to remove your shoes and there were shelves of slippers to borrow. I will admit I was happy I packed my flip flops as the slippers looked like they’d been enjoyed by travelers for the past 30 years! We scarfed down our meals in the hut restaurant, cleaned up, and got in our bunk beds in the dorm-style rooms pretty early.

    In the morning we hiked up the valley to see some more of the seven lakes. At one point in our hike I spotted a huge cave up the side of the mountain. I expressed that I would really love to be able to look inside the cave and I can’t remember who had the grand idea but somebody suggested I climb up the mountain to look. Anne’s friend and I decided to give it a shot. I can’t explain how much steeper the side of that mountain was compared to how it looked from the trail. About halfway up I looked back to the trail and I couldn’t even find Anne or Meredith they were so small! We finally made it to the top and were disappointed to find that the cave was also much higher up the cliff wall than it had looked from the bottom. We decided to take the safe route and not try to climb in. The hike back down was even more challenging but we made it back to the bottom in one piece! We continued on and eventually came to our stopping point before our hike back to civilization, one of the larger of the seven lakes. Any time I see water like this I just want to take a swim and it wasn’t any different this time. I knew that the water would be freezing but it actually is a great way to create a memory. How can you ever forget swimming in a lake that is so cold it makes you scream? Somehow I convinced the rest of my group to join me. There was a group of older women on the opposite shore that got quite a kick out of the whole scene. 🙂

    The rest of the hike isn’t really something worth remembering for me. This is where I had my lesson on hiking in different types of terrain. The trails here were rather rocky and after awhile you realize how fatiguing it is to constantly be changing your footing. On top of that hiking down such a steep mountain is pretty grueling on the knees. By the time we reached those switchbacks I was in so much pain that I couldn’t even talk to anyone. I guess all those years of soccer really screwed things up for me in the knee department. I was incredibly happy when we finished the last switchback and by the time we reached the car I think I was on my last step.

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  • Visiting Lake Bled and Lake Bohinj Slovenia

    If you’ve been following my blog then I’m sure you were expecting Part 3 of my recent series about why I’ve moved to Switzerland. But, we have to keep things in order here. There were some big things that happened between Tuscany and getting back to San Diego and I can’t forget about them.

    In my last weeks in Slovenia I squeezed in as much as possible. With the discovery of my new found love of the Julian Alps during my Canyoning and Rafting trip, I wanted to spend most of my time outdoors. Luckily I had made some great friends to enjoy it with. The highlights of my last few weeks included a weekend stay near Lake Bled, a weekend hike at Triglav National Park, and another weekend in Bovec for some more canyoning.

    My friend and coworker Monika invited me to stay with her at her mother’s house near Lake Bled. I couldn’t have asked for a better host and I still can’t believe how much we did in one single weekend. On Friday evening we visited the famous Lake Bled, a fairytale lake with a castle. There is an island in the middle of the lake with a small church and Monika said that the tradition is the groom must carry the bride up the church stairs. Once you see the stairs you’ll understand what a feat this is, there are 99 steps!

    The next morning, we went on a beautiful hike that took us through the woods and across a hillside with a view of the countryside. After this I had a photo class that was held at Lake Bled taught by Ian Middleton. If you’re in Slovenia and looking to learn more about photography I highly recommend it!

    On Sunday there was a lot to fit in since my photo course took up most of Saturday. I figured we’d visit maybe two places but Monika did not disappoint me. She was determined to show me everything. We woke up early and visited the Vintar Gorge. The gorge is filled with emerald green water and is surrounded by rock walls 50 to 100 meters tall. The walking trail which has been in place for at least 100 years is a wooden boardwalk along the wall edges and sometimes traversing the gorge by bridge. We got there early enough that we had a really peaceful walk down but the way back was starting to get packed with tourists. Regardless of the crowds it is one of the most breathtaking places I’ve been…much like most places in Slovenia. Next we drove to Kranjska Gora which Monika described as a typical mountain town. We visited some more emerald blue lakes (is all water this color in Slovenia?!) and drove up the mountain for a nice view of the valley. Then we headed to Lake Bohinj. The afternoon was becoming sweltering hot so it was a perfect time for some swimming. We stopped on the way at a traditional Slovene restaurant and I enjoyed some local trout. Once we arrived at the lake we realized we weren’t the only ones looking to cool off. We made our way through the crowded beach and found an area to lay out and take a nice swim in the cool water.

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  • Tuscany or Why I Moved to Switzerland Part 2

    Part II of III Read Part 1 here.

    After the Switzerland trip Alex and I decided to plan a trip to Tuscany for my 30th birthday. I have wanted to go to Italy since I was about 15 and saw the movie Stealing Beauty which took place there. It has been the #1 place on my list and so what better way to spend my 30th birthday than there. Granted I had technically already been to Italy. I went to Venice earlier in the summer but it wasn’t a great experience and I didn’t get to eat any good Italian food so I don’t think it really counts.

    We decided the best idea for transportation was to rent a car. I would rent it in Ljubljana and Alex would take a train from Basel. We would meet somewhere and then do a road trip through Tuscany. At first I wanted to go to the Cinque Terre but after talking to a few people I learned that it is a very touristy region. So we decided to plan a different route.

    Going against my highly frugal side I decided that the car I rent should be a convertible. Why not? You only live once, right? Since visiting Italy was inspired by a movie I guess I had this image in my head of driving through vineyard covered hills with my hand out the side of the car making roller coasters in the wind, my hair whipping around and some good tunes playing in the background. Call me cheesy but after having done it I would say its the best way to experience Italy.

    I drove down to Bologna in my black Volkswagon Cabriolet. I hadn’t drove stick since 2008 so I was a little nervous. Turns out its like riding a bike and I really missed it. The drive was pretty easy and once i got into the city the GPS got me to the train station with only a few U-turns. I parked the car and messaged Alex I was there. Unfortunately, when he switched trains in Italy he had gotten on the local train to Bologna instead of the express so I had some time to kill as his train stopped in every….single….town….along the way (at least it seemed that way). The area around the train station in Bologna didn’t feel super comfortable to walk around in alone so I decided to just get a cold beer and relax for a bit at a cafe outside the station. Eventually I headed over to the track Alex’s train was supposed to be coming in on to wait. It was getting quite late and I was starting to get really hungry which normally also equals cranky. The buzz of the station died down as the last trains of the night arrived. None of this really altered my mood as I was too excited to see Alex and start our trip. I was even somewhat civil to the transient trying to make conversation with me even though he was creeping me out a little bit. Finally Alex messaged me that he had arrived on another track. I got up and rushed out to meet him and so began our trip in Italy.

    The next morning, before beginning our road trip, we decided to tour around Bologna for a few hours. I had gotten a tip that the “best gelato ever” was in Bologna and so we also had to see if the rumor was true. Every European city I have visited is extremely different from the next and Bologna was not the exception. You can immediately feel the antiquity of the city. We toured around taking in the architecture and a few churches before hitting the road toward Florence.

    We only passed through Florence stopping at an overlook where we could get a good view of the whole city. It looks beautiful and I would love to go back, especially to see some art. But for this trip we were more interested in seeing the smaller, less touristy destinations.  Next we stopped in Siena which at times I guess can be touristy but we seemed to be the only ones there. We parked and set out on foot to find a restaurant mentioned in my off the beaten path guidebook. When we finally found it there was a nice hand-written sign on the door letting us know that they are closed for two weeks. So we walked up the street a bit and as we passed the first restaurant we had to do a double take. All the way through the open door there was a beautiful patio in the back with an amazing view. Probably because of the time of day we were the only patrons. We were served by a young girl, probably the daughter of the owners and both of us enjoyed a delicious lunch while enjoying the view of the rooftops and hills.

    After lunch we continued to Magliano in Toscano and after a few wrong turns down some beautiful country roads we came to our agritourismo, Podere Cavone. We wandered around a bit and finally knocked at the main house where our host Anna greeted us in some very broken English. She was a happy, round woman wearing a long house dress and communicated with us the best she could before having her daughter come speak to us in English about the important things. She took us to the guest house where she showed us our beautiful room, the shared kitchen where they would bring us some fresh breakfast treats each morning, and our patio overlooking the valley out to the ocean which proved to be an amazing view for a Tuscan sunset.

    A couple days prior to the trip on my actual birthday, Alex had 30 long stem roses delivered to me at work for my birthday. It was one of the nicest, most unexpected gifts and I couldn’t stand the thought of them dying in an empty apartment while we were in Tuscany. So I had wrapped them in paper towels and brought them with me on the journey. Now I brought them in and set them up on the old vanity in the room and it was the final touch to a perfect room in Tuscany.

    Being full from lunch and a bit tired we took a nice nap and later we went over to the main house to buy a bottle of wine produced by the estate’s vineyard. At 5 euros it was a steal. Anna’s large family of daughters, sons, in-laws, and grandchildren were just about to sit down for a late dinner. So we took the bottle and went back to the grassy lawn in front of our guest house to enjoy the wine and sunset, take some photos, and prepare to attempt some starscape photography.

    With the morning sun and a light breeze flooding into the bedroom through the open windows and doors it wasn’t easy to pull ourselves from bed. But we had a packed schedule for the day so we ventured into the kitchen to enjoy some coffee and biscotti, breads and fruits, and wrapped some homemade sandwiches up to take along for the road.

    Our first stop was Manciano. We drove the car up some very steep hills and found a parking spot. We walked through the town for about an hour and made our way to the top of the hill for a nice view. Next we drove on to Pitigliano. I’m not sure what I was expecting but I was shocked at how the town looked as we approached. So ancient looking and as if it just rose out of the dirt. It definitely was unlike anywhere I’ve been before. I absolutely love anything that is old. Old attics, basements, antiques, houses… I enjoy imagining the stories behind them and this town was full of that feeling.

    We drove through a few other towns which were similar and then decided to try and find a vineyard from the guide book for lunch. The guide book documented “off the beaten path” type places and I couldn’t have chose one more “off the beaten path”. After driving back and forth for a bit we finally found the dirt road we were supposed to turn down. We drove quite far down this bumpy road with branches hitting the sides of the car until finally we reached the property. Pulling in we realized we were the only car and the building that looked to be the restaurant/wine shop looked closed up. We’d spent so long finding the place that I didn’t want to give up so we walked around the house and yelled “hello” a few times. I swear I heard people inside but no one came to greet us. I got the feeling we were being ignored. I guess they didn’t feel like being open that day. I was a little hangry (hungry/angry) at this point. We left in search of something else. We came upon the next town, Sorano which was very similar looking to Pitigliano. We began searching for a restaurant. We weren’t having much luck when I spotted a sign for a Cantina. Being as hungry as I was I’m not sure why I suggested it but I asked Alex if maybe we could sit and have a drink before continuing on our hunt. So we followed the hand-painted sign that pointed down a small staircase. We walked through tight alleyways and turned several corners and just when we were about to throw our hands up in the air thinking we were lost again we saw another sign. This time we were led quickly to Cantina L’Ottava Rima. The place immediately brought a smile to my face. Built into the side of the hill it was as if we were entering a cave. There were random antiques all around as decor, various wine bottles, and cute little tables and chairs. In the background some 1940’s American music played. We were greeted by a friendly, young Italian man and he showed us our seating options. We walked through the empty restaurant into the back dining room that literally was in a cave. Beyond that the cave went down further and was lit by candles. It felt like air-conditioning the further you went in! We decided on a table at the front of the house right by the small food prep area. There was no kitchen here but we found that there was a food menu and we decided on sharing an order of Panzanella and a plate of assorted cheeses, dried meats, and a cold bean salad. We asked the owner for a wine suggestion and he served us an affordable crisp, light, white wine which was refreshing against the hot weather and paired perfectly with our food choices. The food was amazing. So simple but full of underlying complexity. Each cheese and meat was expertly selected. The bean salad was probably my favorite part. This was the kind of Italian food I dreamed of eating. We both really enjoyed this meal, the ambiance and the friendly owner. I feel so lucky that I decided on a whim to follow that Cantina sign.

    After lunch we headed to Ortebello, a town on the coast. After a stop at the store and a bit of driving around we found a parking lot for beach access. Since it was late afternoon at this point many people were leaving. We grabbed some beach chairs, changed into our suits, and ran out into the water. The water was warmer than I expected and we had a lot of fun swimming and jumping through the waves for awhile. After showering off and changing back into our clothes we decided to start our drive back toward the Agritourismo since it was starting to get late. We figured we’d end up close to it by dinner time and find a place to eat in a nearby town. I had some suggestions for restaurants that Anna had provided us. We headed toward one of them but I got sidetracked when I saw a sign pointing up a long windy road that said “Slow Food”. Perfect! I wanted a nice long Italian meal. We headed up the hill and at the top was a beautiful farmhouse with chickens, rabbits, and a huge peacock standing guard on the roof. We were greeted by a bunch of small yippy dogs as well but it seemed the animals were the only ones there. Another dead end. Fortunatly though we were in the perfect spot for a beautiful Tuscan sunset so we took a bunch of photos before getting back on the road where I took some more photos of the sunset.

    The next town we drove through in search of dinner had its streets closed off and all of the parking was taken. Some kind of event seemed to be taking place inside the walls of the town. So we continued on to Magliano in Toscana but not without stopping first at a roadside cemetary that caught our attention.

    This was probably the smallest town we had visited. At this point we both were beyond starving as it was almost 10 o’clock at night. It was dark and we didn’t explore much but I think it only had two small roads lined with shops and houses. Immediately we found the road we were looking for and the first restaurant we saw was packed with people. Alex suggested we just go there but I was convinced it was all tourists and wanted to find the recommended place. We walked all the way to the end of the road and never found it. So we returned to the original spot called Trattoria de Maria Moretti and entered. I immediately realized that we were the only tourists in there when every single eye turned and fixed on us. We sat down at a large table that had a couple at the other side…the only empty seats in the house. All around us families and couples chatted loudly in Italian and drank and ate what smelled like delicious food. A woman came over and did her best to ask us what we would like to drink. We asked for red wine and before we could ask what kind they had she disappeared. She returned with a bottle of red. “Uh oh, we didn’t order a bottle…I hope its not too expensive.” Then she returned again with a plate of bruschetta and another of salami. “Hmm, interesting that they give these nice complimentary starters”. When she returned again with a plate of pasta with mushrooms we realized we were eating from a fixed menu with no idea how many courses or how much it would cost. The unfortunate part is that we didn’t know how to pace ourselves since we weren’t sure what was coming next. We glanced around at other tables to try and see where everyone else was at in their meal. Another plate of pasta came out. Then another. We noticed that some tables had meat dishes but the couple at our table who were on track with us must have skipped it and went straight to dessert. Feeling quite full we agreed we should ask our waitress if we can do the same. Alex tried to explain to her and I was pretty sure when she walked away that she had not understood us. But when she returned she brought lemon sorbet and we both looked at each other relieved that she had understood. But oh no, we were wrong! The sorbet was just a palate cleanser! Out came the meat and potatoes. We both had a bite to be polite but we could not get any more into our stomachs. We then made it clear we did not want any dessert and she asked us if we’d like espresso or an after dinner drink of limoncello, grappe, or dessert wine. Alex got an espresso and I asked for limoncello. She returned with a bottle of homemade limoncello, grappe AND wine. Geez! In the end the cost of this crazy meal was 20 Euro each! So much food and drink for such a small price and everything tasted fresh and homemade. It was another amazing experience in Italian food. (Unfortunately in our hungry stupor we forgot to take any photos)

    I think we may have shared some more wine when we got back to our room but I’m pretty sure we both quickly passed out from a food coma. The next morning we woke up, ate some breakfast and said our goodbyes to the beautiful Podere Cavone.

    For our last day in Tuscany we would mostly be driving, headed back to the train station in Bologna. We made a stop in Pisa to see the leaning tower. This is a must-see I guess but the site was extremely touristy with lots of guys hawking sunglasses, watches and handbags. We got some amusement out of watching people pose like idiots in front of the tower so they could get that oh-so-cliche shot of themselves holding up the tower, pushing it over, or making it look like giant genitalia between their legs. (No offense to those of you who have taken these shots) There is much more to be seen there than the tower but we didn’t have much time. So we got back on the road en route to Bologna.


    It’s funny how long this post is because in truth that last day felt like the trip was far too short. We got to the train station and walked out to the platform where Alex would take the train back to Switzerland. This goodbye was a bit nerve-wracking as we’d just had another wonderful trip together but unlike the last time we knew we wouldn’t see each other again so soon. I was really sad to say goodbye.

    You know how in movies when they film those scenes of people saying goodbye at a train station? The couple kisses and embraces and then one of them gets on the train just as its ready to pull away and they wave and cry and maybe the person left behind chases after the train waving until its gone. Well it’s not like that in real life. We kissed and embraced and then Alex boarded the train since the last whistle has blown alerting us it was about to leave. He sat down in the first seat by the door and looked at me through the window. Now if they train had left right then and there it would’ve been more like the movies. But it didn’t. It sat there for a few minutes while we smiled at each other through the window doing our best not to look sad. Then it was just awkward as we were still staring at each other and the train wasn’t leaving. There was a guy finishing a cigarette on the platform still! We both just ended up laughing at each other because of how funny the whole thing was. Then the train finally pulled away. I didn’t cry or chase after it because I knew I would be seeing Alex again. He would be in California in just a few weeks and so would I.

  • Swiss Bliss or Why I’m moving to Switzerland Part 1

    Part I of III

    With a couple of wool blankets a bottle of wine and some cheese, we found a grassy spot by the farm shed and waited for the first stars to appear. Things didn’t look promising at first as there was a pretty heavy cloud cover but as the night darkened the clouds dissipated and we were left with a stunning night sky speckled with millions of stars. At this point I just had to keep pinching myself. How did I end up stargazing in the Swiss Alps?
    Saoseo Switzerland Hiking the Alps
    Switzerland was another adventure in couchsurfing as it started. I had been contacted on the site by Alex who was coming to Slovenia on business and was looking for a couch to sleep on for a night so he could explore Ljubljana. I was excited to be a couchsurfing host for the first time since I had such a great time couchsurfing in Vienna, but also a bit weary of it. So we began exchanging messages so that I could feel out the situation. Unfortunately, after a few messages I realized that I would be in Croatia at the time of his arrival so I wouldn’t get my chance at hosting after all. But we continued talking because he had questions about California for an upcoming trip he had planned. I joked with him that I would gladly answer his questions if I had a couch to sleep on in Basel (where Alex lived) if I should ever find myself there. His response was welcoming and as with most things since I arrived in Europe I decided to take the opportunity in front of me.

    Over the next few weeks we planned my trip to Basel. Alex suggested that we should take a trip to hike in the Alps while I was there. I agreed of course. I arrived in Basel late Thursday night by plane. On Friday I did some touring around Basel while Alex was working, and saw all of the major tourist sites. Then in the evening we did some food shopping for the trip and went back to his apartment and enjoyed a great BBQ on his balcony. But let’s get to the good part. On Saturday morning we departed for our hiking trip in the Alps in Saoseo, Switzerland.

    We hopped on the train fully prepared for the next 6 hours. A few bottles of wine, cheese and meats, chocolate, strawberries, the fixings for sandwiches…what else do you need? Unfortunately we discovered pretty early into the trip that we had left a bunch of items behind in the refrigerator. Trying to look on the bright side I suggested that perhaps we will find an even better cheese as a replacement and besides we would have food waiting for us at the end of the weekend. At the next train change where we had a layover we ran over to the store and sure enough we found a nice local cheese that was delicious. This seemed to set the tone of our trip. Absolutely nothing could go wrong.
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    The last change put us on the old red Bernina train that we would ride on switchback tracks through the Alps. The windows came down on this one and we were able to stick our heads out and take some amazing pictures. For the last two hours of the train we both were standing with our head out a window alternating between each side of the train to take in all the views. I think I had a smile permanently etched on my face as I’d never really experienced anything like this before.
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    When we reached the last stop we switched over to a bus that drove us  to the next town where we would begin our hike. Apparently we could have taken the bus all the way to camp but we opted for the 3 hour uphill hike after such a long train ride. It was extremely hot and for me it was the first time hiking with  a large pack. We took a few breaks here and there and then stopped at a nice spot to have a picnic lunch. One of the great things about traveling with Alex is his mutual love of food. And not just any food…he has good taste. This is important since I get quite cranky if I don’t eat often enough. We found a nice bench with a backdrop that looked unreal and unpacked our spread to feast. With full bellies we continued our hike and finally reached camp.
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    I would describe the camp as visiting Grandma’s house. A nice older woman ran the place and for just an extra 10 euro you could enjoy a home-cooked dinner served around 8pm. Aside from us there were a couple families we had seen on the bus staying in the dorms. The accommodations were clean and comfortable and we had an amazing view from the open shutters of our window.
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    After eating way too much at dinner we decided a walk was in order. We hiked down to the lake just below camp. The lake was a bit hidden until you were basically upon it and suddenly you just saw a pop of turquoise through the trees. We’d brought our cameras and photographed until we began to lose light and decided it would be better to hike back up while we could still see.
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    And that’s how I ended up on a blanket under the stars in the Swiss Alps. Of course this isn’t the end of the story. Far from it actually.

    The next day we woke up to the sound of cowbells through the open shutters as the cows grazed up and down the creek. We had a nice breakfast and set out for our day long hike. I can’t begin to describe the scenery in words so I’ll just let the photos do the talking. Everything was breathtaking. Alex was a great hiking partner. We had a good pace going and took breaks whenever we needed them or whenever we wanted to take a photo. I never felt rushed, we ate often and stopped many times just to take it all in. About halfway through the day we hiked down into a valley to Lake Saoseo. We indulged in a little schnapps, relaxed a bit and then headed down to the lake to explore. I brought a bathing suit with the hopes of doing some cliff jumping. Alex warned me that the water would be cold but I shrugged it off and explained that I love the rush you get from jumping into cold water. I wasn’t convincing him and he agreed he would film me jumping in but that he wasn’t going near the water. We found a good cliff to jump off of but now I was a bit nervous about how cold the water would feel. Finally after a lot of stalling I jumped. I’m pretty sure that’s the coldest water I’ve ever been in but I will never forget it for that same reason. I don’t think Alex will either has he seemed to find it extremely entertaining when I surfaced with a shriek and began swimming as fast as possible to shore.
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    After the lake we set off for a peak that seemed far enough away that it would take another day of hiking. Every time Alex would point to where we were going I thought he was joking. But some how we made it to each spot. This was the first time I had hiked with a pack and definitely the longest hike I’ve ever been on. It was great feeling to conquer the mountain and be rewarded by an amazing view from the top. After building a snowman in some patches of snow and ascending the final peak we started to head back to the hut for a well-deserved beer, dinner and some late night wine and starscape photography.
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    After such an amazing trip neither of us could imagine parting ways for good. On the train ride home we discussed planning another trip together before my time in Europe ended. As luck would have it my 30th birthday was 2 weeks away and I had been toying with the idea of spending it in Italy. All I was lacking from making confirmed plans was someone to travel with. So, it was decided… we would meet once again in Tuscany.
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    Read Part 2 here.

    All photos are by both Alex and I. If there weren’t enough in the post you can see all of on page 2 of this post. (sorry for the duplicates.)

  • Castle WOD

    I’ve not made many CrossFit posts since I’ve been here. I was doing pretty well in May and June and probably went once or twice a week. Maybe I even hit 3 workouts sometimes. I felt like that was pretty good considering I was keeping myself really busy and traveling most weekends. Plus with all the walking and bike riding I was doing I think I was staying on track. July however has not been quite as good. The workouts at CrossFit Plamen weren’t fitting in my schedule so well and I was lacking the motivation to WOD on my own. I’m really looking forward to getting back into a routine when I’m home. The CrossFit here is good but it’s just not the same community and workouts that I’m used to.

    This morning I woke up to do a nice uphill run to the castle and a made up WOD at the top. Then a run back down and breakfast at a nice cafe before going home to get ready for work. I realized that while I really dislike running I don’t mind trail runs so much. And I found a nice spot at the top with a perfect tree branch for pullups, a bench for dips and pushups, and a stone wall for step ups (no wall jumps this time after busting my shins on it last time). I was rather surprised I could still do so many pullups after a few weeks off and while my time on the WOD wasn’t great and I could really feel that I had drank too much last weekend I was happy to complete it.

    Run 2.5k uphill
    rest and stretch

    As many rounds as possible of 3 rep sets of deadhang pullups: total 5 rounds

    WOD:
    4 rounds of 40 air squats, 20 step-ups (25-30″wall), 10 pushups, 5 bench dips
    time: 15:22

    Run 1.5k downhill, eat breakfast, walk 1k home.

    Note to self: Give yourself at least an hour between workout and eating or you will come close to losing your breakfast. Also, Grouplove is great running music.

    Trail Run to Ljubljanski Grad
    Trail Run to Ljubljanski Castle
    Trail Run to Ljubljanski Grad
    Run through part of the castle walls
    Beautiful Ljubljana morning!
    A nice view of the city
    A perfect pullup bar :)
    Perfect pullup bar 🙂
    Castle WOD
    A good spot for a workout. Wall for step-ups, bench for pushups and dips.
    Beautiful Ljubljana morning!
    A beautiful Ljubljana morning!
     
  • Rafting and Canyoning in the Soča River Valley – Bovec, Slovenia

    I have found my calling in life. When I found out I was coming to Slovenia one of the first things I read about was canyoning in the Soča River Valley. I’ve always loved cliff jumping and swimming in the mountains so this seemed like something I would like. Plus, from photos I could see that the Soča River was not to be missed.

    So I had the opportunity to go on an organized rafting and canyoning trip in Bovec, Slovenia with InterNations. For 110 Euros we got to go on a guided rafting trip, have a BBQ, stay in Hotel Kanin with complimentary breakfast, and then finish the weekend with a guided canyoning tour. It was an excellent deal!

    I rode to Bovec with Anne, Meredith, and Kevin (Meredith’s boyfriend who was visiting from the states). Idil, the girl from Vienna that I roomed with in Croatia had also arrived in Ljubljana by train the evening before to join the trip. After driving up the winding mountain roads we descended into a valley and finally arrived in Bovec, a cozy laid-back mountain town. It was the beginning of the season so I can’t say how busy it is in the middle of summer but it was really quite perfect at this time with not too many tourists. We checked into our hotel and waited to be picked up by the guides from AKTiVNi Planet, a local excursion company. They brought us by van to their equipment location where they outfitted us in thick wetsuits, helmets, booties, and life jackets. Then we were carted off to the ice blue waters of the Soča River. After dressing in our new outfits we divided into two groups and carried our rafts down into the river. First thing our guide Roli had us all take a dip in the water to feel the temperature and get over the fear of the cold. It was around 8 degrees Celsius (46F). I happen to like cold water from all my years in New Paltz, NY. We would go into the mountains on the first hot day after the winter thaw and jump into swimming holes. Of course you get out as fast as you can but the water is invigorating and fires every nerve in your body. You’re left feeling a burst of adrenaline and energized. In short, it wakes you up! Even with the wetsuits this water was shockingly cold. After our first dip we listened to instructions from our guide and climbed onboard our raft. This was my first rafting experience and it was so much fun! I sat in the front and got splashed quite a lot and bounced around. The best part about this trip for me was seeing the river up close. It is truly the most beautiful river I’ve ever seen and the valley surrounding it is so peaceful. Our group worked well as a team and we only had two people go overboard but they were quickly rescued. We made one stop on the trip at a giant rock where we propped the raft up as a slide and took turns jumping, sliding, and bouncing down into the river. We all made it out in one piece thanks to our guide who seemed to know this river like the back of his hand.

    After returning to the hotel for some hot showers we headed back out to The Yurt Bar. This is a Yurt out in a field next to the river where drinks are served and the local guides hang out. They had prepared a BBQ just for us and the food was delicious and the quantity was great after the tiring rafting trip. After some relaxation and a few more drinks we headed back to the hotel to get some sleep for a full day of canyoning.

    Ok, so now onto the important part…canyoning! The day started off pretty much the same with picking up our wetsuits, helmets and booties. Except this time our wetsuits were slightly different with some reinforcement on the ass and knees. We were also given what they were calling pampers which was an added covering you wore over the wetsuit like a diaper. Obviously there would be a lot of sliding on our butts being done. With gear in hand we were taken to Sušec Canyon (I think this was the name). We hiked about 30-40 minutes up the canyon in our wetsuits and booties. It was steep and it was hot! The group broke into song midway up which was a nice distraction. When we finally arrived at the top the ice cold water was inviting after the sweaty climb. I wasn’t sure what to expect on this tour since sometimes group tours are pretty tame so that everyone in the group can enjoy it. I was really hoping for some big jumps. To give a bit more detail on canyoning its basically hiking down the canyon in the water and navigating the natural waterslides and waterfalls by either sliding down them or jumping off of it into a nice deep swimming hole below. Of course some are deeper than others and some are fairy small. You do have to be careful about everything you do here especially because it can be easy to lose your footing and slip. Our first drop was just a meter or 2 and our guide Deni showed us how to properly slide down it backwards or forwards. With a nose full of water this was the start of one of the best experiences of my life. From there I was like a kid in a candy store and once our guide Deni realized that I was big on jumping he allowed me to climb up to higher spots with him to jump.

    Having not jumped in quite some time even the smaller ones got my blood flowing. After a few jumps and with my adrenaline pumping I climbed up to about 7-8 meters (22-26 ft) with Deni. With just a few inches of rock below our feet he held my arm as we balanced there and explained to me the proper way to jump from this height. But then he began laughing at me “You’re shaking!?!” he says. “Well, um, yeah. This is scary!” I asked him to be quiet, took a few deep breaths, steadied my knees and went for it. What an amazing feeling it is to overcome fear and do what your mind and body are screaming at you not to do. I could become addicted to this feeling. Of course Deni then climbed about 10 meters higher and did some sort of flip or dive into the water. The dude is nuts! He asked if I wanted to jump from the spot he had but I declined as I was afraid I would puke from an adrenaline overdose.

    The 3.5 tour ended with a 12 meter waterfall (about 40 ft). It was completely vertical and we were given the option of sliding down or walking around. Of course I chose the waterfall! For this we had to lay back and keep our bodies completely rigid as we hit the water. The drop combined with the force of the waterfall pushing you down made you hit quite hard. When you turned around and looked back and watched others drop into the pool it was quite impressive to see what you’d just done.

    This day made me feel so happy and alive. It combines everything I love; nature, mountains, rivers, swimming, hiking, sport, physical challenge, exploration and adrenaline. You see the mountain from a completely different perspective when you hike it this way. I really felt as if I was made to do this and if there was a way that I could combine it with my design career somehow and get to do this regularly I would be in heaven.

    Soča River-Bove? Slovenia (1)
    The view from our room at Hotel Kanin
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    The view from our room at Hotel Kanin
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    The Yurt Bar, Bove?, Slovenia
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    Eating BBQ at The Yurt Bar after an exciting day of rafting

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    Meredith and Anne on the bridge overlooking the river

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  • Croatia Day 2 and 3

    I am behind on these posts again so let’s catch up a bit with the rest of my trip to Croatia. After visiting the Plitvice Lakes we headed to a house rental in Zadar, Croatia and joined back up with the rest of our group. The place we rented was perfect. Two adjoining apartments on the top floor with balconies overlooking the sea. I roomed with Idil, an awesome Turkish girl who lives in Vienna. After having lunch we walked to the beach and caught up on some much needed sleep in the sun. The water in Croatia is beautiful, turquoise, and clear. The beaches are actually not sand but stone and most of the coast in Zadar is cement. For this reason we planned to take the ferry to some islands to experience the real coastline.

    On the second day we first set out for a beach in Zadar only to find that it was similar to the beach from the day before. Half of us decided to take a ferry to an island and the other half decided to stay in that area. I can’t remember the name of the island unfortunately. We got off the ferry and walked along the coast through a village. We stopped in a grocery store for some snacks and drinks and then we paid something like 50 cents to take a boat taxi to this tiny little island with a monastery on it. The boat taxi was rowed by a pretty old man and it was really impressive to imagine how many times a day he crosses the channel to the island. Although the distance wasn’t too far it seemed to be a bit of work especially when the wind picked up and the current was strong. We weren’t so lucky on this day because as soon as we got onto the island the sun went behind the clouds and it got a bit chilly. So there was no swimming but it was still a really peaceful spot to relax surrounded by beautiful waters.

    On the third day the whole group took another ferry but this time with cars to another island called Dugi Otok. First we took the cars and headed to the only sandy beach on the island. We stopped in a small village named Veli Rat for lunch and I had a nice walk through the little town. Then we headed to the beach. It wasn’t so much sand as it was stones but wow was the water incredible. And this time it was hot enough for a swim! After a few hours on the beach we decided to head to another part of the island that has a lighthouse and the more typical rocky Croatian coastline. This was my favorite spot by far! And of course if a location has something to jump off of into the water than I am in heaven! That evening we had dinner as a group at a great local restaurant and then explored the old part of Zadar for a bit. My favorite things were a Sea Organ and this light scultpure right on the edge of the water. The sea organ was built so that as the waves crashed into the banks they went through pipes and made music. The were some steps to sit on right above where the waves crashed in to listen to it. Just a few hundred meters away was a giant circle of solar-powered LEDs in the ground which turn on at sunset and create a light show. Both of these installations were created by the same artist. More information and photos can be found here. The next morning we cooked all of the food we had left in the apartments and had a giant family breakfast before parting ways and heading to Zagreb to catch the train home.

    Croatia is really beautiful and I wish I had time to take another trip there to explore some other areas. I think you really need more than 3 days for it because it takes the first two days just to familiarize yourself with the area. But, I feel so fortunate to have gone and to have met the people that I did. I love how things are falling into place in my time here. In a post still to come Idil, my roommate from this trip, joins me for a rafting/canyoning adventure in Slovenia… and all this started from signing up on a little website called couchsurfing.com!

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