Tag: slovenia

  • Road Trip by Motorcycle: Croatia and Slovenia Part 2

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    Read Part 1 first, click here.

    Next on our stop was Plitvice Lakes National Park or Nacionalni park Plitvička jezera. But first we needed lunch and a campsite. For lunch we stopped at a small restaurant on a creek. I love that you can get so much fresh fish in Croatia. It’s not always as available living in Germany. After lunch we had a small mishap. I was still in my swimsuit and decided I needed fresh clothes on for the rest of our ride. We hadn’t seen any cars on the road so it seemed safe enough to change at the side of the bike. I worked quickly at getting the leather pants off. No cars were in sight, but just as my swimsuit dropped around my ankles a car came slowly around the curve and was subjected to my full ass staring him in the face. I locked eyes with the driver who was laughing hysterically. Probably he was laughing at the look of sheer horror on my face! Well, at least I made someone’s day. (No photos of that part of the trip, sorry.)

    The ride was absolutely beautiful, at one point we passed this gorgeous landscape with a lake and herd of sheep in the fields. Landscapes like this were a surprise for me. I had no idea parts of Croatia looked like this. We came to our campsite just before evening. It was located not too far from the park entrance so we could get up and start the day early there.

    This is the second time I’ve visited Plitvice and I would recommend always going right when they open (I think around 6am). Especially if you plan to do the full route as it takes a half day and by then end the park is swarming with tourists. Since you’re walking the whole way on narrow boardwalks it can become quite annoying when you get stuck behind a crowd. And needless to say it’s just not as nice to experience nature with throngs of people, especially when many seem to have no respect for their beautiful surroundings.

    In my opinion this is a place that is worth putting up with annoying tourists for. While Krka is also gorgeous, this place just has a lot more in the way of “wow” factor for me. We ended up taking so many photos because every single place you look is photograph worthy!

    After the full day at Plitvice we drove on to Opatija. This town was unlike any of the others we’d visited in Croatia. In the late 19th century it became an extremely popular destination for Austro-Hungarian nobility and many hotels and villas were constructed in this style. The architecture here was a huge contrast to what we had seen in other areas and we both commented that we somehow felt like we were in Cuba. Why Cuba? We have no idea, we’ve never been to Cuba. I was curious how we both could feel that way and with some quick googling discovered that both cities are built in the Neoclassical and Art Nouveau styles. I guess subconsciously we both recognize architecture styles a bit.

    After exploring on foot we had dinner at Ruzmarin. Another mishap occurred here when I promptly dumped my entire cocktail into my lap. The chairs were some sort of non-absorbent material, so the drink pooled in my seat making my entire dress look like I peed myself. Awesome. Luckily, I found one of those super high-powered hand dryers in the bathroom and stuffed my dress in there and it was dry in seconds! However, I almost got caught with my pants down again when some lady came in the bathroom while I attempted to blow-dry my undies. I’m starting to feel that exposing yourself is just a normal part of road-tripping by motorcycle. Moving on…the highlight of this restaurant was the molten chocolate cake. If you ever find yourself in Opatija go to Ruzmarin and get this cake. It was the best ever! Unfortunately we ate it before we could take a photo.

    After dinner we hopped back on the bike and drove through some very windy, very dark, and very scary dirt roads until we finally came to Sveta Marina where we’d found a campsite for the night. Some people probably feel that camping at a campground isn’t real camping. However, I have to say that after a full day of riding on a motorcycle I welcomed the idea of a hot shower and real toilets. This was by far the most luxurious campsite we’d stayed at to date. We managed to get a seaside site but since it was dark when we arrived we didn’t get a view until morning. Waking up in a tent and looking out onto the Adriatic Sea was probably one of the coolest camping experiences I’ve had.

    We enjoyed the nice shower facilities they had and then had a nice breakfast with a view. Then we sunned on the beach while watching the scuba divers and eventually took a dip ourselves. I wished we could’ve stayed here longer and relaxed but we were on a schedule at this point and so we packed up headed out. The drive back up the peninsula was much less scary in daylight. This was our last day in Croatia and next we were headed to Slovenia.

    Having been to Slovenia a few times now we knew what we wanted to see…the mountains! This was our last night so we just enjoyed the ride and another amazing campsite on the Soča river. Slovenia never disappoints and the turquoise color of the water is breathtaking every time I see it. It was a great way to end an amazing trip!

  • Road Trip by Motorcycle: Croatia and Slovenia Part 1

    in July of 2014 Alex was invited on a sailing trip in Croatia with some of his work colleagues. He decided to ride his motorcycle there and then we planned that I would fly down after his trip and we would make a one-week road trip back to Munich through Croatia, Slovenia and Austria.

    I will keep this post brief and just mention all of the amazing places we visited. The pictures speak for themselves and it was definitely the way to see Croatia.

    So I arrived at the airport in Split, Croatia where Alex picked me up on the motorcycle. He had most of my gear packed already on the bike and I just arrived with my helmet and dry bag full of the rest of my things. I changed in the parking lot getting a few odd looks from people walking to their cars. I guess it looks a bit odd to be leaving an airport on a motorcycle packed full of camping and road tripping gear.

    Prior to arriving in Croatia I had messaged my friend from High School Justin. He was in Croatia for his wedding and he and his lovely wife invited us to visit them on the island of Supetar just a ferry ride from Split. So we headed from the airport to the ferry intending to find a campsite on the island. When we mentioned our plan Justin and Andrea generously invited us to stay in the gorgeous house they rented for their wedding trip. One night turned into three and we had such an amazing time with them. They took us to their favorite restaurant, the same one they’d had their reception dinner at. There we enjoyed really amazing seafood and grilled meats. The highlight was probably the squid ink risotto and the world’s best White Russians we had for dessert.

    Alex and I didn’t want to impose to much so the next day after some beach time we took the motorcycle to the other side of the island to see another town and have some dinner. We had another great meal overlooking the ocean and after exploring the streets a bit and observing the night life we headed home. The drive back on the pitch black winding and hilly roads was a bit scary for me. Something that will take getting used to. We met up again with Andrea and Justin for some more White Russians.

    The next morning we stopped at a bakery where Andrea ordered us some Börek, a fried pastry filled with meat or cheese. I stood there in amazement as she fluently spoke to the Baker in Croatian, turned and had a conversation in Swedish with Justin, and then confirmed the order with us in English. Puts my German learning skills to shame! We took our “healthy” breakfast to the beach and enjoyed the sun and the sea. After some relaxation we were feeling like we needed to move around so we decided to try out the floating action park. I thought this would be like a medium level of fun but it was way over the top! We paid for 30 minutes I think and it went by so fast as we jumped from the giant inflatable iceburg, bounced recklessly from one platform to the next, slid down slides, climbed walls, and then finally challenged eachother to a timed race. We were having so much fun we attracted all the pre-teens to try out our race too and so we timed them as well. Happy to say that us old folk had better balance and speed than the youngsters. We checked out another beach and spent the rest of the day lounging in the sun, swimming, and jumping off the pier. The next morning we left on the ferry early with Andrea and Justin who were ending their vacation and flying home.


    Once back in Split we tried to explore a little. Andrea had recommended seeing the old part of the city. We parked the bike and within minutes the sky looked like the world was coming to an end. We decided we should get on the road and get as far as we possibly could since we had no idea how bad the storm would be or how long it would last. So we managed to take a few photos of Split, which was really gorgeous with the white stone buildings and green shutters. We basically got about 2 minutes onto the highway before the sky opened up and it started raining…hard. Of course there was NOTHING on the road. We debated turning back and then saw a random cafe out in the middle of an industrial area. We parked the bike in an open garage and ran inside. I’m not sure when the last time was that I saw rain like that. It was just coming down in sheets and you couldn’t see anything beyond the road. When the sky finally cleared, maybe two hours later we got back on the road and headed to our next stop, Sibenek.


    Another beautiful seaside town and similar to Split with the white and green buildings. We had found a highly rated restaurant on Tripadvisor called Pelegrini. They weren’t quite open yet so we checked out the Cathedral of St. James and then walked up through the narrow alleys to St Michael’s Fortress. The journey up through the streets was the best part. It reminded me a little of exploring the small hidden corners of Piran in Slovenia. The view from the top wasn’t too bad though either.

    After lunch we left Sibenik to continue to our next destination Krka National Park. Roadtripping in Croatia offers some really interesting landscape. We drove through lush forests, mountains, desert life terrain, and wide open plains. The countryside was dotted with many abandoned and gutted buildings. Some were covered in what looked like a spray of bullet holes. I can only assume this is devastation from the war which was never rebuilt.


    We arrived to Skradin in the late afternoon. After finding a small campsite and setting up for the night we walked into town in search of some dinner. We bought some local figs and salted almonds from some vendors and then tried to select the least touristy restaurant we could find. Our choice was decent. Not the best of our trip but an enjoyable meal and wine and by the end a trio of musicians roamed the restaurant playing at the tables. It reminded me a lot of Mariachi bands in San Diego and made me a bit nostalgic. After dinner we explored the streets of Skradin, bought some gelato and hiked up to the Fortress of Turina to check out the view.


    The next morning we woke up early to take the ferry to the park entrance. We were one of the first ferries of the morning so aside from us and the others on our boat the park was uncrowded. At Krka there is one roped off area where you can swim in the unbelievably clear, turquoise water. In hindsight we should have done this first, but we decided to try and get the walking tour started before the park filled up with people. Krka has many beautiful waterfalls and it just seems that everywhere you look is breathtaking. At the end of the walking tour we headed toward the swimming area to find that it was packed with people. I decided I at least have to get in for a little bit to test the frigid waters as I usually do. Alex took my word for it, it was cold!


    We took the ferry back to Skradin and had one more thing to check out before hitting the road. Before arriving in Croatia I had seen Justin post a photo of a bridge he jumped off of. I asked him for the name of it and it happened to be in Skradin. I didn’t want to leave without also jumping. Justin had warned us that it might not be legal so to just do it and leave. When we arrived there was some sort of park ranger looking guy at the dock so I was a little nervous. We first scoped out the area a bit and he didn’t seem to be bothered that we were there. I then tested my nerve by jumping from the underside of the bridge. Piece of cake. I hiked up to the top of the bridge while Alex got ready to snap some photos. Once at the top a man on a bicycle stopped to watch. Standing at the top of the bridge in a bathing suit, it was obvious was my intentions were. To be honest, if he wasn’t there watching I may have wussed out. But since it’s important to impress strangers that you’ll never see again I jumped without much hesitation. My form was poor and I screamed pretty loudly but I think it was warranted since it was one of the highest jumps I’ve done I think. Something about jumping from heights into cold water has a way of etching memories of my trips into my brain.

    Read Part 2 of this trip.

    Part 2

  • Happy Birthday Acacia! Finally posting our Slovenia road trip!

    Happy Birthday to my beautiful friend Acacia! I decided I will finally finish this blog post about her visit to Germany LAST SPRING and what better time to do it than the day after her birthday.

    When Acacia first told me she was coming to visit and we picked some dates I started scheming right away. After a bit of back and forth with a few different ideas we decided to spend some time in Munich and then take a road trip through Slovenia. Acacia had heard so much about my trip there that she wanted to see it. I realized that there was still a lot there left for me to see too so it would be a new adventure.

    On arrival Acacia was of course a bit jet lagged so I decided after some relaxation at the apartment we could do an easy city tour on the big red double decker tour bus. I’d never done one of these tours before…and I’d never do it again. It was probably the most boring “tour” I’ve ever done. It was about the same as just taking a public bus around the city. The only good part is that it’s a hop-on/hop-off tour so we were able to get out and see a few things. I think Acacia fell asleep a couple times on the bus. The positive was that it definitely didn’t require much energy from us so it was good for someone with jet lag…but I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone.

    The second day we did some wedding dress shopping. I knew this was something I wanted to do with her because we probably wouldn’t have any other chance. I booked an appointment at one shop and another friend from Munich also met us there. The shop was lovely and served us some Champagne. The dresses were beautiful but way more than I wanted to spend but it was nice hearing some opinions and I was grateful to have that experience with Acacia.

    The big highlight was our planned road trip to Slovenia. We bought tickets for the long haul bus for something like $60 round trip from Munich to Ljubljana. The ride was supposed to be about 5.5 hours but on the way there we were stopped for awhile due to a tunnel having construction. It added about 2 hours to the trip. Overall though you just can’t beat that price.

    Once in Ljubljana we walked from the bus station through town to our hostel for the night. This was actually my first time staying in a hostel. We decided to get a private room so that we’d get a good night sleep. The problem ended up being the pigeons outside our window keeping us up rather than fellow travelers. Next time I’ll remember ear plugs. But again it was a good, budget friendly place to stay for the night. After dropping our bags off we headed out to explore town. Ljubljana is one of my favorite cities so it was really fun to be able to share it with Acacia. We wandered around the cute streets in the old part of the city. Ate some gelato, had dinner at my favorite restaurant (Marley & Me) and took a walk up to the castle. I forgot to take photos in Ljubljana for some reason.

    The next morning we rented a car and started our road trip. I felt bad because I don’t have a driver’s license anymore so Acacia had to do all the driving. The good thing about Slovenia is that it’s so small it doesn’t take long to get to the next place. I tried to plan our trip so there was just about an hour of driving between each destination. Truth be told I ended up doing some of the driving so that Acacia could enjoy looking at the scenery. Oops!

    Our first destination was the Skocjan Caves which are a UNESCO National Heritage site. We decided to stop on the way there to see Predjama Castle. The castle is about 700 years old and is built into the side of a 123 meter cliff. It’s a pretty amazing sight. We decided to just view it from outside the entrance to save from paying the fee. The view was pretty good from there anyway and we didn’t have the time to take a tour of the inside since we’d booked a tour of Skocjan.
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    The Skocjan Caves were really beautiful and the tour was informative and in English. The caves are formed by the Reka River which disappears underground and then reappers 34km away. The river flows through some caves which total about 6km. There were some points when the water was flowing really powerfully through the caverns which was impressive. There were other areas where you could see the old caving equipment and boardwalks that had been built (no longer in use) and you could really imagine what it might have been like to be an early explorer of the caves. You especially felt this when they turned out all the lights and you experienced total darkness. If you’d been in there with only a lamp and in a few places 100 meters drops into raging water…that would’ve been a bit scary.
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    We weren’t allowed to take photographs in the caves but we took a few when we exited. There were a few ways back to the car and we decided to take the longer, scenic route which involved a few hundred steps. We got our exercise in for the day!
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    After the caves we were heading toward Dobrovo, which is in the wine region. We decided to take a short detour though when Acacia asked if we were near Italy and if we could pop over to check it out. So we headed there for lunch. I knew nothing about the area so we picked a coastal town on the map. It turned out to be a pretty dirty looking port town. We got some lunch and decided to try a nearby village on the way out that might be more appealing. We weren’t so lucky with that town either but we stopped anyway for some gelato. Acacia tried ordering a coffee and instead got the strongest espresso ever and had to add water to it. So Italy was kind of a bust but at least she can check it off the list. 🙂

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    In Dobrovo, I’d booked us a room in a house that overlooked the valley with a nice view of the vineyards. After checking in we headed into town and enjoyed some wine and a nice dinner. Our stay was a little bit too short in this area. It would’ve been nice to have an extra day and get out and do some wine tasting. Even so, the scenery is well worth the quick visit. As we headed out the next day there was some sort of festival in town that people were getting setup for. As we drove slowly through we saw something that I’m not sure I’ll ever forget. They had begun roasting an entire cow on a spit. The thing that made this so crazy looking is that all of the skin of the cow had been removed and the eyes were open and just staring. It was really unexpected first thing in the morning!
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    Our next stop was Tolmin to see the Tolmin Gorges. This area is heading into the mountains but we didn’t have time to get too far into the mountains as that really increases the driving time. I’d never been to this area before either so I was pretty excited. The GPS directed us to start going up the mountain. I had decided to drive this part so Acacia could get a good view. The road quickly turned into a very narrow one way mountain ridge. We kept driving for 20 or 30 minutes and still didn’t see a sign of the gorge. Finally we reached a spot where some people had parked and were starting to hike up to a site. But it definitely wasn’t the gorges so we asked them about it. Luckily they spoke English and they told us where we wanted to go was all the way down the mountain back in town. We’d somehow taken a wrong turn. So back down the mountain we went, hoping that no cars would be trying to come up the mountain as there was no place to really pull over. We decided to have some lunch when we got back down and get some more instructions about where to go. It turned out that getting there was quite easy as long and we’d just made one wrong turn. We’d come to the gorge with our swimsuits hoping for a swim in the turquoise waters and maybe a dip in the hot spring. Sadly there was no swimming allowed. So we hiked along the boardwalks and just looked longingly at the beautiful water. It probably would have been much too cold to enjoy anyway.

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    After the gorge we hopped back in the car and headed toward Lake Bohinj where we would stay for the night in a farmstay. Alex had been doing a solo motorcycle trip through Slovenia and decided he would meet us there for the night. The hosts were so generous and when I asked if Alex could tent camp on their property they said they would just put us in the bigger apartment for the same price and he could stay with us for free. So nice! The farm was in a tiny village outside of town and had it’s own chickens and cows. The people were really friendly and the apartment was clean and comfortable. We went into town for some dinner and to walk around and check out the lake.
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    The next morning Alex left us to continue his trip and Acacia and I headed to Lake Bled. This is the “fairytale lake” of Slovenia and I figured we should make a stop for some photos before heading back to Ljubljana to return the car and catch our bus to Munich.
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    Once back in Munich we just did a little relaxing before Acacia’s flight back. Our neighbor’s had a birthday breakfast so she got to hang out a bit with some Germans and see what a German breakfast is all about.
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    All in all the trip was a success! I’m so grateful that she made the trip over here and that I was able to share so many amazing things with her. I know life will just be getting busier and busier but I hope this isn’t the last time she’ll make it over to Europe! 🙂

  • Back to Slovenia

    One of the perks of freelancing full-time now is that I can be flexible with my schedule and join Alex on some of his work trips and turn them into a little weekend trip. At the end of June last year he had to go to Ljubljana, Slovenia for a work conference and of course I wanted to join him for that. It turned out that it was exactly one year to the day that we first met in Ljubljana that we would be back there. We decided to extend the trip into the weekend and stay in the mountains.

    The first few days in Slovenia Alex attended his conference during the day while I went into town and worked from one of my favorite cafés in LJ called Paninoteka. One nice perk is I got to stay in a nice hotel in the city center with a great view. I enjoyed quite a few nice lunches while I worked at the café with free wi-fi. I just found a quiet little corner on the couch, had lunch and worked for hours and the waitstaff were totally fine with it. This is one thing I really enjoy about this city. Almost every restaurant seems to have free wi-fi and not a care if you linger there working. A freelancer’s dream! The only thing better is if my laptop screen didn’t have so much glare so that I could work outside.

    Lunches at Paninoteka and the view from our Hotel

    I also was really happy that I got to meet up with a lot of friends. I had coffee with my coworkers one after noon, introduced Alex to my friend Anne over dinner, and even made it to a couchsurfing meeting to see some of my old friends I met through there. On another evening when Alex and I were done working we had a nice dinner and then took a bottle of wine up to the castle. We had a beautiful sunset and toasted to our one-year anniversary since meeting each other. We finished off the evening with some dessert at another favorite spot Cacao. The last evening of Alex’s conference I was invited to join the closing event which was a traditional Slovenian meal at Restavracija Skriti Kot. The waitstaff were dressed in traditional clothes and even did a dance performance involving our party. It made for a very entertaining evening.
    Sunset at the castle and dessert at Cacao

    Once the weekend arrived and the conference was over we rented a car and headed to Kobarid, a small town in the mountains of Slovenia. We had booked a room at a turistična kmetija (tourist farm) I found online. We followed the GPS which seemed to take us to somebodies house. A woman walking on the street luckily spoke some German and explained to Alex that this was the owner’s residence but our rental was at another address. So we entered that into our GPS and shortly arrived at a VERY remote village. We drove down extremely narrow roads through the town until arriving at our location. The place looked really neat and peaceful but there didn’t seem to be anyone around. We had no instructions for a key and the owner wasn’t answering his phone. We tried all the doors and nothing opened. At this point we were starving and it was starting to get late. I was getting hangry and suggested we should find another place to stay. If we waited around too long other places might close and we’d be sleeping in the car. We booked another place about 30 minutes away. At that point the owner finally had emailed me back and told us the door was open. We went and gave it another try and after a more forceful turn we got the door open and entered into a very drafty, damp room with a pullout couch. The bathroom floor was soaking wet, the bedsheets felt damp, and there wasn’t even toilet paper. The owner called back and we told him we wouldn’t be staying. He apologized that the room wasn’t in order and offered to meet us and buy us a drink to make up for it. Slovenians are so nice! It was late so we declined and set out for our new location. We stopped on the way at a local restaurant and were treated to some great food, good hospitality, and some live music. It seemed like it was the hot spot that night in the village.

    Our unexpected adventure…this is the place we ended up not staying and Alex looking very tired and ready to eat and finally find a place to sleep.

    Finally we made it to our new place which was MUCH more welcoming. The owners of Turisticna Kmetija Kranjc stayed up past their bedtime waiting for us to arrive and quickly got us settled in. The room was clean, warm and DRY and we fell asleep quickly after a long day.

    Our new and much improved accommodations.

    The next morning we enjoyed a simple homemade breakfast made with fresh ingredients and then asked the owner for some advice about mountain biking in the area. They rented us out two bikes and helmets for next two nothing and even had water bottles for us. We weren’t sure if we should drive the bikes down the mountain a bit to start because from our drive up the night before we knew it was a really steep climb back up. The owner assured Alex that it would be challenging but it’s doable. I tried to explain to Alex that when a Slovene says something is easy then it’s actually hard. So if they say it’s challenging it’s probably next to impossible. He shrugged me off and we set out for our first mountain bike ride together.

    Going down I had to get comfortable again. Last time I rode was in CA and I had a few bad falls that turned me into a nervous rider. Alex is at home on a bike and this seemed to be a piece of cake for him. Either he was being very patient with me or I was doing an OK time keeping up with him. I had to dismount a few times where there were big areas of rock slides to cross. I was a little frustrated and intimidated but we eventually made it down the mountain and into town. We stopped for lunch in town and refueled and then continued our ride through the valley. This are was flat but we rode for quite a few hours. There was a destination in mind along the river where we would be able to jump in but we eventually decided not to ride all the way there. It was hot and we still had a long ride back ahead of us. For me, the only way to enter cold water is by plunging in. I really can’t wade into cold water because it feels like torture. But we decided to stop anyway and see if we could go for a little swim. As expected it was just way too freezing. Alex managed to capture my reaction to the cold on camera. Needless to say I did not go in longer than half a second.

    Freezing water!

    Hiked out to a waterfall

    Photoshoot on the bridge before heading back up the mountain. All smiles still at this point.

    So the next part is where we made a huge mistake. We had a few snacks with us but we hadn’t eaten a meal since lunch in town. After riding for all that time we really should have eaten before starting the climb back up the mountain. I definitely get cranky when I’ve not been fed. Normally I’m a bigger fan of the climb than the downhill when biking but on this day it was not the case. After quite a few switchbacks I was already out of energy and my mood turned very pessimistic. I got caught in a downward spiral of negative thoughts and watching Alex pump along without a complaint was making it worse I think. I hate feeling defeated and I was not handling it well at all. It wasn’t long before I started to cry to myself and then started to complain out loud. I even at one point told Alex I hated him. And while of course I was just being a brat I really was a little mad that he thought I was going to be able to do this. I even got off my bike at one point but it was so steep that my legs were burning even more and it felt like it would take days for me to make it up that mountain. Getting off the bike was a mistake because it was hard to get back on at such an incline. I’m definitely no pro biker! I started contemplating if Alex should ride back and come get me with the car but I had no idea how far off we were from finishing and I didn’t want to be out there for hours waiting by myself. He even suggested it at one point which made me more angry. I was really just mad at myself for letting my attitude become so defeatist. Once you tell yourself you can’t do it, you’re lost. But somehow I managed to pull it off and once we got up the most nasty part of the mountain we had a nice view and a more flat road and I could start to see an end in sight. I got a new burst of energy and I somehow survived that ride. I swore I would never ride with Alex again…and actually I haven’t since. However, I think that if we picked something a bit more tame, or I’d eaten something, or I get more practice on a bike then we can try again at some point. I don’t know how Alex put up with me that day but I love him for the amount of patience he has! This is a map of a route very similar to ours in terms of difficulty. The beginning of our ride was a different route as I think we came down the mountain more quickly and then rode along the river. But either way it shows the way back up so you can see what I’m talking about. http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=714356

    You can see in my facial expression here that I’m still in good humor but I’m also starting to pout about the ride. Aside from my poor attitude the ride up was gorgeous!

    One last photo of beautiful Slovenia on our way home.

  • Riding the Zip Line in Bovec Slovenia

    If you’ve been following my blog then I’m sure you were expecting Part 3 of my recent series about why I’ve moved to Switzerland. But, we have to keep things in order here. There were some big things that happened between Tuscany and getting back to San Diego and I can’t forget about them.

    In my last weeks in Slovenia I squeezed in as much as possible. With the discovery of my new found love of the Julian Alps during my Canyoning and Rafting trip, I wanted to spend most of my time outdoors. Luckily I had made some great friends to enjoy it with. The highlights of my last few weeks included a weekend stay near Lake Bled, a weekend hike at Triglav National Park, and another weekend in Bovec for some more canyoning.

    My final adventure in Slovenia took me back to the small mountain village of Bovec. I knew I had to return after my first weekend there. I had left feeling like this was a place that I would love to spend my life. My tour guide Deni and I had become Facebook friends and so I messaged him to let him know I’d be returning. He kindly helped me find an affordable place to stay for the weekend. When I arrived, there was a little festival in the square and I sat outside with Deni and some other tour guides and tourists drinking beers and listening to some live music. It was a great way to start off the weekend. Deni acted as my host and invited me along on the tours he was working. He had another friend in town with his wife and child and so the five of us went on a canyoning tour together. It was just as fun as the first time except with the smaller group we made it down the canyon much faster.

    After canyoning we enjoyed lunch together and then parted ways until we met up later for a zip line tour. The zip line park was so new in Bovec that a news team was in our group to film the experience. The tour was about three hours long and started with a ride up the mountain in the open back of a 4×4 military style vehicle. This was a thrill in itself as it offered amazing scenery and a fun bumpy ride. It was a much bigger group this time joined again by the family from canyoning, Deni’s son, the news crew, and quite a few other adventure seekers. I didn’t imagine that I would be so nervous for the zip lining but I’m pretty sure the kids were less scared than me. I guess that’s probably normal though as kids usually aren’t afraid of much. After a training session on a small zip line course in the woods we hiked up to the first platform.

    The zip line is apparently 2.5 km total in distance, 130 m above the ground and you reach speeds up to 40 km/hr! I hovered in the back of the group letting others go while I attempted to calm my nerves. I honestly felt sick to my stomach and could feel my heart beating in my chest. This was the first time it was truly apparent to me that regardless of the fact that I like to cliff jump I am in fact afraid of heights. The buildup and adrenaline rush prior to the ride was actually more intense than the ride itself. Once you’re flying across the valley its actually a release of all that adrenaline. When you’re out in the middle of the valley you just scream as loud as you want, look out at the view and feel lucky as hell that you’re experiencing something so awesome!

    After the long day we stayed up late into the night drinking pretty hard at the local bar. Deni and his friends were incredibly fun and it felt like I’d known everyone there for a lot longer than a weekend. While Bovec is a place that instantly feels like home to me, I realized that if I actually lived there I would have a really hard time keeping up with the amount of partying these people do. Especially after a long day of physical exertion! My last weeks in Slovenia were some of the best experiences of my life. I was really sad to be leaving but the 3 months changed me and I was excited to see what else life had in store for me. With one more week left before my flight back to the States I headed to Helsinki, Finland to visit my friend Tiki.

    Click a thumbnail to open the gallery. Hover over the image and use the left and right arrows to navigate through the gallery.

  • Visiting Lake Bled and Lake Bohinj Slovenia

    If you’ve been following my blog then I’m sure you were expecting Part 3 of my recent series about why I’ve moved to Switzerland. But, we have to keep things in order here. There were some big things that happened between Tuscany and getting back to San Diego and I can’t forget about them.

    In my last weeks in Slovenia I squeezed in as much as possible. With the discovery of my new found love of the Julian Alps during my Canyoning and Rafting trip, I wanted to spend most of my time outdoors. Luckily I had made some great friends to enjoy it with. The highlights of my last few weeks included a weekend stay near Lake Bled, a weekend hike at Triglav National Park, and another weekend in Bovec for some more canyoning.

    My friend and coworker Monika invited me to stay with her at her mother’s house near Lake Bled. I couldn’t have asked for a better host and I still can’t believe how much we did in one single weekend. On Friday evening we visited the famous Lake Bled, a fairytale lake with a castle. There is an island in the middle of the lake with a small church and Monika said that the tradition is the groom must carry the bride up the church stairs. Once you see the stairs you’ll understand what a feat this is, there are 99 steps!

    The next morning, we went on a beautiful hike that took us through the woods and across a hillside with a view of the countryside. After this I had a photo class that was held at Lake Bled taught by Ian Middleton. If you’re in Slovenia and looking to learn more about photography I highly recommend it!

    On Sunday there was a lot to fit in since my photo course took up most of Saturday. I figured we’d visit maybe two places but Monika did not disappoint me. She was determined to show me everything. We woke up early and visited the Vintar Gorge. The gorge is filled with emerald green water and is surrounded by rock walls 50 to 100 meters tall. The walking trail which has been in place for at least 100 years is a wooden boardwalk along the wall edges and sometimes traversing the gorge by bridge. We got there early enough that we had a really peaceful walk down but the way back was starting to get packed with tourists. Regardless of the crowds it is one of the most breathtaking places I’ve been…much like most places in Slovenia. Next we drove to Kranjska Gora which Monika described as a typical mountain town. We visited some more emerald blue lakes (is all water this color in Slovenia?!) and drove up the mountain for a nice view of the valley. Then we headed to Lake Bohinj. The afternoon was becoming sweltering hot so it was a perfect time for some swimming. We stopped on the way at a traditional Slovene restaurant and I enjoyed some local trout. Once we arrived at the lake we realized we weren’t the only ones looking to cool off. We made our way through the crowded beach and found an area to lay out and take a nice swim in the cool water.

    Click a thumbnail to open the gallery. Then hover over the image and use the left and right arrows to navigate through the gallery.

  • Rafting and Canyoning in the Soča River Valley – Bovec, Slovenia

    I have found my calling in life. When I found out I was coming to Slovenia one of the first things I read about was canyoning in the Soča River Valley. I’ve always loved cliff jumping and swimming in the mountains so this seemed like something I would like. Plus, from photos I could see that the Soča River was not to be missed.

    So I had the opportunity to go on an organized rafting and canyoning trip in Bovec, Slovenia with InterNations. For 110 Euros we got to go on a guided rafting trip, have a BBQ, stay in Hotel Kanin with complimentary breakfast, and then finish the weekend with a guided canyoning tour. It was an excellent deal!

    I rode to Bovec with Anne, Meredith, and Kevin (Meredith’s boyfriend who was visiting from the states). Idil, the girl from Vienna that I roomed with in Croatia had also arrived in Ljubljana by train the evening before to join the trip. After driving up the winding mountain roads we descended into a valley and finally arrived in Bovec, a cozy laid-back mountain town. It was the beginning of the season so I can’t say how busy it is in the middle of summer but it was really quite perfect at this time with not too many tourists. We checked into our hotel and waited to be picked up by the guides from AKTiVNi Planet, a local excursion company. They brought us by van to their equipment location where they outfitted us in thick wetsuits, helmets, booties, and life jackets. Then we were carted off to the ice blue waters of the Soča River. After dressing in our new outfits we divided into two groups and carried our rafts down into the river. First thing our guide Roli had us all take a dip in the water to feel the temperature and get over the fear of the cold. It was around 8 degrees Celsius (46F). I happen to like cold water from all my years in New Paltz, NY. We would go into the mountains on the first hot day after the winter thaw and jump into swimming holes. Of course you get out as fast as you can but the water is invigorating and fires every nerve in your body. You’re left feeling a burst of adrenaline and energized. In short, it wakes you up! Even with the wetsuits this water was shockingly cold. After our first dip we listened to instructions from our guide and climbed onboard our raft. This was my first rafting experience and it was so much fun! I sat in the front and got splashed quite a lot and bounced around. The best part about this trip for me was seeing the river up close. It is truly the most beautiful river I’ve ever seen and the valley surrounding it is so peaceful. Our group worked well as a team and we only had two people go overboard but they were quickly rescued. We made one stop on the trip at a giant rock where we propped the raft up as a slide and took turns jumping, sliding, and bouncing down into the river. We all made it out in one piece thanks to our guide who seemed to know this river like the back of his hand.

    After returning to the hotel for some hot showers we headed back out to The Yurt Bar. This is a Yurt out in a field next to the river where drinks are served and the local guides hang out. They had prepared a BBQ just for us and the food was delicious and the quantity was great after the tiring rafting trip. After some relaxation and a few more drinks we headed back to the hotel to get some sleep for a full day of canyoning.

    Ok, so now onto the important part…canyoning! The day started off pretty much the same with picking up our wetsuits, helmets and booties. Except this time our wetsuits were slightly different with some reinforcement on the ass and knees. We were also given what they were calling pampers which was an added covering you wore over the wetsuit like a diaper. Obviously there would be a lot of sliding on our butts being done. With gear in hand we were taken to Sušec Canyon (I think this was the name). We hiked about 30-40 minutes up the canyon in our wetsuits and booties. It was steep and it was hot! The group broke into song midway up which was a nice distraction. When we finally arrived at the top the ice cold water was inviting after the sweaty climb. I wasn’t sure what to expect on this tour since sometimes group tours are pretty tame so that everyone in the group can enjoy it. I was really hoping for some big jumps. To give a bit more detail on canyoning its basically hiking down the canyon in the water and navigating the natural waterslides and waterfalls by either sliding down them or jumping off of it into a nice deep swimming hole below. Of course some are deeper than others and some are fairy small. You do have to be careful about everything you do here especially because it can be easy to lose your footing and slip. Our first drop was just a meter or 2 and our guide Deni showed us how to properly slide down it backwards or forwards. With a nose full of water this was the start of one of the best experiences of my life. From there I was like a kid in a candy store and once our guide Deni realized that I was big on jumping he allowed me to climb up to higher spots with him to jump.

    Having not jumped in quite some time even the smaller ones got my blood flowing. After a few jumps and with my adrenaline pumping I climbed up to about 7-8 meters (22-26 ft) with Deni. With just a few inches of rock below our feet he held my arm as we balanced there and explained to me the proper way to jump from this height. But then he began laughing at me “You’re shaking!?!” he says. “Well, um, yeah. This is scary!” I asked him to be quiet, took a few deep breaths, steadied my knees and went for it. What an amazing feeling it is to overcome fear and do what your mind and body are screaming at you not to do. I could become addicted to this feeling. Of course Deni then climbed about 10 meters higher and did some sort of flip or dive into the water. The dude is nuts! He asked if I wanted to jump from the spot he had but I declined as I was afraid I would puke from an adrenaline overdose.

    The 3.5 tour ended with a 12 meter waterfall (about 40 ft). It was completely vertical and we were given the option of sliding down or walking around. Of course I chose the waterfall! For this we had to lay back and keep our bodies completely rigid as we hit the water. The drop combined with the force of the waterfall pushing you down made you hit quite hard. When you turned around and looked back and watched others drop into the pool it was quite impressive to see what you’d just done.

    This day made me feel so happy and alive. It combines everything I love; nature, mountains, rivers, swimming, hiking, sport, physical challenge, exploration and adrenaline. You see the mountain from a completely different perspective when you hike it this way. I really felt as if I was made to do this and if there was a way that I could combine it with my design career somehow and get to do this regularly I would be in heaven.

    Soča River-Bove? Slovenia (1)
    The view from our room at Hotel Kanin
    Soča River-Bove? Slovenia (2)
    The view from our room at Hotel Kanin
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    The Yurt Bar, Bove?, Slovenia
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    Eating BBQ at The Yurt Bar after an exciting day of rafting

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    Meredith and Anne on the bridge overlooking the river

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  • Brda Dok Wine Day Slovenia 2012

    The International Club of Slovenia had an event planned for Brda Dok Wine Day. We met and took a bus into the wine region of Slovenia that borders Northern Italy and visited six different wineries. Since it was wine day this meant you paid 10 euros for a wine glass and then drank all the wine you wanted. By the end of the day I had tasted many great wines to the point of not wanting another sip, seen a beautiful region of the country, met many new and interesting people, ate cow tongue by mistake, and enjoyed a wonderful family style dinner of Slovenian food (and more wine!).

    While I’ve not been to Tuscany yet I heard people comparing this region to it. It’s actually exactly what I was hoping for when I do get to visit parts of Italy. The land is beautiful and there is a rich sense of history, tradition, and family here. My favorite winery was the last one we visited where it felt like you were a guest in somebody’s home. In fact, I think we actually may have been in their home! All these wineries are run by families and most of them have been in the business for generations. At this particular winery children ran in and out of the celler while we were served the most amazing pršut (prosciutto) I’ve ever had in my life. Carefully hand sliced as if it were an art form to get each one paper thin and consistent all the way through. As long as you stood by the pršut it just kept ending up in your hand. And of course the wine was flowing endlessly as well. Each place was a bit different and had its own appeal. In one small village there were numerous wineries housed in storefronts. We filled our glasses and enjoyed them in the cobblestone streets and soon a group of men began singing a cappella. At another one the tables had complimentary olive oil, breadsticks, and some sort of meat that was really tasty. After eating a few pieces I learned that it was tongue! Oh well, it really was good and it didn’t stop me from having some more. One winery had an amazing view while another had to be reached by foot, where we enjoyed some cherries from the trees lining the path up.

    I came home with two bottles of a sweet red dessert wine. I usually am not a fan of dessert wine but this was excellent. At the place where I bought this I actually met a guy from North Carolina who has been living in Italy for the past 10 years and now in Slovenia. He is trying to move back to the states and bring the word of Slovene wine to people. He is a distributor so if anyone reading this has connections to wine stores, restaurants, or specialty shops that you think would be interested in amazing, close to unknown Slovenian wines please let me know so I can help him out and send you his info.

  • The Slovenian Coast – Strunjan to Piran

    So far my experience with people here is that pretty much everyone is extremely friendly and helpful. This includes Slovenians and other foreigners from all different countries. At the couchsurfing meeting i went to this week I met Anne. Originally from France, Anne has lived in Ljubljana for the past 6 months by way of Brussels. She moved here to work and so will be staying for a few years if not permanently. We met for coffee one morning and had a great conversation that led into politics at some point. Not usually my favorite topic but it was very interesting to hear the point of view of a non-American. Anne was kind enough to invite me for coffee at her place Saturday morning and a ride along to the coastal towns of Strunjan and Piran.

    I rode a bike over to her place in the morning and it was fun to see an actual residence since my apartment is more of a temporary living space and decorated pretty sparsely. Her apartment (or should I say flat?) was really comfortable and stylish. Lots of bright pops of color everywhere and nice furnishings. She had a sunny patio where we had some tea and coffee while we waited for her friend Majca to join us. Majca is Slovene and so we had a great tour guide for the trip. She also proved to be just as friendly as everyone else I’ve encountered. I have been completely amazed at the fluency in which both Anne and Majca speak English and it makes me really regretful that I never mastered another language. I really wish it was something that was stressed in education in the US.

    Anyway, let’s get to the point… the beach! By car the coast is about 90 minutes although it seemed much faster to me. We arrived and parked in a village called Strunjan and first walked over to the Salt Flats. They don’t produce much salt here anymore because its not the most efficient way. But it was interesting to look at and I’m told they still produce some although its expensive to purchase.




    From there we walked/hiked along the hilly coastline toward Piran.
    I saw quite a few houses that I wouldn't mind living in!
    Majca knew about a shortcut which was a much nicer walk than along the road.
    It took us down a sunny dirt path lined by a stone wall that must have been there for hundreds of years.
    I can't believe how green it is here!
    Every once in awhile the path would wind toward the ocean and we'd get a glimpse of the emerald-turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea.
    Eventually we came to a road overlooking Piran and the Adriatic Sea.
    Slovenia is full of bright bursts of color around every corner.

    Majca and Anne stop for a photo as we find our way through the cobblestone streets to the town center.
    Some of the alleyways were so narrow that you felt like you were indoors until you looked up and saw the sky.
    We made it through the maze of streets and walkways, down the hill to the town center.
    After surveying the menus of the numerous waterfront seafood restaurants we chose one and quickly ordered this local grapefruit beer. Very refreshing and not too sweet.
    I was so hungry and excited to eat that I forgot to take a photo beforehand. We had mussels in a delicous butter-wine sauce, pomme frites for dipping and a seafood salad with squid and shrimp. Everything was fresh and very tasty!
    I think I look like I'm enjoying myself in this photo. 😉
  • Ljubljana by foot

    I spent about four hours walking the streets of Ljubljana today. There is a little marketing slogan the country has which is “I FEEL sLOVEnia”. It is very fitting since it took all of about 30 minutes for me to decide that I love it here. The weather has been hot and sunny with scattered showers. It’s rather nice getting caught in the rain in Europe. It’s actually funny how things that could be unpleasant are the opposite when you’re in Europe…just proves its only a matter of perspective.

    I took the D90 out today to try it out. I’m just learning to use it and refresh myself on photography so don’t judge too harshly. Not much is in focus.

    The city center is a short walk from my apartment. Here is where I would start listing names of places and describing them but to be honest it’s really hard to remember names of places when you can’t pronounce them. I’ll get there eventually. There’s a big circle in the center of town that serves as a meeting place for people. The streets that intersect it are filled with cafes, boutiques, and restaurants. On one side there are the “Three Bridges” that cross over the Ljubljanica River which runs through town. When you cross the bridge there are more old buildings filled with restaurants and shops. I kind of just wandered aimlessly through the streets intentionally getting lost. A few times when it started to rain I had to duck into a doorway and wait it out. This is much more fun than ducking in a doorway in the states because it’s a really old doorway with big heavy wooden doors. And it’s in Europe. This also gave me a chance to pull out my guidebook and look up a place for lunch. I was getting hungry at this point.

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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – My perch from a doorway while I waited out the rain. The city smells old and musty when it gets wet.

    It’s really hard to make decisions with so many choices. I decided to just eat at the first restaurant I stumbled upon which happened to be a French bistro. The food was delish and the atmosphere was nice but my hunch is that I’ll have to visit France if I really want something authentic.

    Eventually my feet got tired so I decided to head in the general direction of my apartment but take a different route. I ended up in some old industrial part of town first with some great graffiti. Then I came upon a few museums that look like they’ll be worth checking out later. Finally, I made it back home and took a nice long nap.

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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – Graffiti
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – Graffiti for Harry Potter lovers

     

     

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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – City Centre
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – Graffiti
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – A museum
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – Another Musuem

    Afterward I logged into my old couchsurfers.org account to see if there was any sort of activity in this area. I was thinking about trying to find people to travel to the coast with later this week. Lo and behold there was a weekly couchsurfers meeting happening at a local bar in ten minutes! As hard as it is to force myself to go out alone in a foreign country and make conversation with strangers I figured there’s no point in putting it off. I arrived at a little outdoor bar called Green Space. There were about 6 or 7 others enjoying some beers. Eventually the group grew to about 10 or so which apparently was abnormally small because of the holiday. A few people were just traveling through, some were natives, and others are living here like me but from another country. French, Argentinian, Swedish, Slovenian, etc. but everyone speaks English which makes things much easier for me! I got some inside tips and a few contacts for possible travel companions later this week. Possibly the coast for the day? Or a trip to France? So many choices…

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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – Some interesting signage
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – Signage made from old skate decks
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – Storefront art made from old skatedecks
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – Storefront art made from old skatedecks
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – Dragon Bridge
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – People place padlocks on the bride cables here to signify love
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – People place padlocks on the bride cables here to signify love
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – fish heads
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – City Centre
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – City Centre and Castle on the Hill
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – Old books and a typewriter
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – Ljubljanica River
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia – A little side street I wandered down
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    Ljubljana, Slovenia